Quillaja Saponaria extract - A natural alternative
7/31/2012 2:38:25 PM
Andean Q Ultra (Quillaja saponaria) is extracted from the Chilean soapbark tree, a 15m evergreen that grows in the pristine foothills of the Andes, and has been used by the native Chileans as a shampoo for centuries. The word “quillean”, from which its name is derived even means “to wash”.
Quillaja saponins are extracted from the milled bark or wood of pruned stems and branches. This process does not kill the tree, thus it is very easily sustainable and does not harm the environment, even on a large scale.
Quillaja extract contains over 100 Triterpenic saponins, consisting predominantly of glycosides of quillaic acid. The Saponins are the main active component that provide excellent cleansing, emollient and emulsifying capabilities for a wide range of personal care applications.
Quillaja triterpenic are non-ionic surfactants, resistant to salt, heat, and extremely stable to acid pH (between pH 1-6)
Due to the extract’s excellent foaming profile and mucosa friendly behaviour it is also ideal for use in toothpaste and mouthwash formulation with a low irritation profile.
Andean Q Ultra is a 100% natural, light amber coloured liquid, with an agreeable odour.
Andean QD Ultra is a 100% natural, light beige coloured, free flowing powder.
Both Andean Q Ultra and Andean QD Ultra come in organic variants.
Quillaja extract treats acne by reducing skin sebum, as proven in an instrumental, clinical and subjective assessment. The study took place over a period of 4 weeks following a group of 30 volunteers who experience acne lesions. Upon using a 2% Andean QDP ultra organic 89.7% gel experienced noticeably less greasy skin after only 2 weeks of treatment with no adverse reactions. Another study of 20 volunteers resulted in 100% of the group reporting less greasy skin.
Conclusions from both studies stated that the extract:
• Washed away impurities in the skin
• Was delicate to sensitive facial skin
• Left the skin less shiny
• Made pores less evident
• Reduced acne lesion
• Use resulted in a fresh, clean effect
After four weeks of treatment upon 20 individuals where the volunteers applied 2 ml of the lotion on their scalp, twice a day, various conclusions were made by comparing readings from the beginning and end of the trial.
Using an analytical balance to measure, on average the corneocytes of the subjects had decreased in mass by an average of 37%.
By pressing a transparent adhesive disk (D-squame) 5 times onto the scalp to collect corneocytes to measure the total surface covered by the corneocytes a decrease of 9% was observed, using colorimetry to measure the amount of light let through the test area (on a scale of 0-100 where 0 : black and white : 100).
A device fitted with a manual counter featuring a ribbon 0.1 cm wide and with a surface contact area of 64 mm2 was used to absorb the sebum from the skin, measuring the quantity of lipids present on the ribbon from a collected sample. A decrease of 12% in mass of sebum present was observed.
In summary, a statistically significant decrease in the following were observed:
• The corneocytes weights and in the total surface covered by corneocytes
• The scalp sebum values
• The level of dandruff and seborrhoea
• Baby care products
• Moisturising lotions
• Facial washes and cleansing wipes
• Liquid make-up
• Shaving creams and mousses
• Soaps, shower gels and shampoos
• Mouthwashes and toothpastes
- Not animal tested
- Organically certified by Ecocert
- 100% Biodegradable
INCI: Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract
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